Wolfram Stempel, Riesling MHF20

Wolfram Stempel is somewhat of a quiet icon, and his wines are a reflection of that. These are wines that make you pause, think, and appreciate wine—and life itself. Wolfram spent many years in Japan before moving back with his family to Piesport on the Mosel, where he began farming just 0.2 hectares of vineyards. Yes, that’s 0.2 hectares—not a typo. With such a small holding, Wolfram crafted wines that were daring, brave, and so original that no comparison would be fair—or even necessary.

He certainly did things his own way. Influenced by his time in Japan, Wolfram’s winemaking is characterised by precision and dedication. He emphasised the importance of the small things, and his philosophy was unconventional, yet clearly committed to excellence. He favoured slow ferments, selectively used carbonic fermentation, and extended élevage (aging) in smaller barrels, primarily old barriques or 300-litre barrels. The result? Singular wines—textural, vibrant, and expressive, with complexity laced with layers of spice. The acidity, while unmistakably Mosel, is shaped more like a serpentine stream than the typical sharp edge.

With only 0.2 hectares farmed, quantities are scarce and hard to come by, making these wines highly sought after. This rarity has been amplified even further since Wolfram decided to return to Japan with his family—a country and culture close to his heart. Will Wolfram one day return to the Mosel, or decide to make wine somewhere else? Maybe even in Japan? No one knows, but surely time will tell.

In the meantime, here are some words of wisdom from Wolfram, a motto that has always personally inspired me:

"Wine should first and foremost be fun. Wine lends itself perfectly to discussion and philosophising—best enjoyed with dignified table company or a boisterous carousal. In the wine lifestyle, people sometimes forget what it’s all about: the wine has to be drunk and tasted first and foremost."