Vollenweider, Riesling Kabinett Wolfer Goldgrube 2019

In 1999, Swiss winemaker Daniel Vollenweider laid the foundation with just one hectare of land in the renowned Wolfer Goldgrube. Driven purely by passion, Vollenweider's dedication has created a legacy in the Mosel and beyond. The Goldgrube, often compared to the iconic Scharzhofberg, is the flagship site, representing the pinnacle of Daniels winemaking journey. Speaking of Scharzhofberg, it was a bottle of Egon Müllers iconic wine that initially sparked Daniels motivation to jump into winemaking.

Over the years, Daniel expanded his holdings to four hectares in Traben-Trarbach, managing mostly steep slopes with old and ungrafted Riesling vines. His minimal-intervention approach in the cellar—eschewing fining, enzymes, and added yeasts—allows the natural characteristics of the vineyards to shine through. Among his other masterpieces is the dry Riesling from Schimbock, a raw diamond that requires patience to reveal its full brilliance.

In July 2019, Daniel was diagnosed with late-stage prostate cancer. While most of his close friends and colleagues were aware of his illness, Daniel, an intensely private person, did not want it to be a topic of discussion. He sought neither sympathy nor pity. His focus remained on working in his vineyards and ensuring that people could taste his wines without distraction.

Understanding the physical demands of maintaining six hectares of steep Mosel vineyards, especially while undergoing chemotherapy, Daniel quickly brought the young Moritz Hoffmann on board as a partner. From the first conversation post-diagnosis, it was clear that Daniel found solace in knowing that the estate would continue to thrive under Moritz's care.

A cool, mineral character runs through all the Vollenweider Rieslings, with nature serving as the guiding force behind their creation. The single-vineyard wines are sensorially dry, though they may possess some residual sweetness depending on the vintage. However, their stony and salty character ensures this is never overpowering. These wines always need time and should not be rushed.

For dedicated Mosel fans, Vollenweider has long been a top name in the region—a cult winery that, while small in hectares, is immense in its uniqueness. Daniel Vollenweider's passionate dedication has left an enduring milestone in the history of the Mosel. It is heartening to see his vision live on through the capable hands of Moritz Hoffmann.